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Sunday, July 21, 2013

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival (博多祇園山笠 祭 祭り)

Before I tell you my experiences, here's a little background of the festival, courtesy of Fukuoka Now:
History
Yamakasa can be traced back some 750 years ago to a Buddhist priest named Shoichi Kokushi. In order to eradicate an epidemic, Kokushi was carried on a platform while he prayed and sprinkled holy water. The religious ceremony was held annually to keep the epidemic away, slowly evolving into the festival it is today.

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During the Edo era, the festival was held according to the lunar calendar during the first two weeks of June, later being changed to July. It has been held every year since expect for a few brief years during the Meiji period and the world wards.
Originally, the tall kazariyama, floats now used only for display, were used as the race floats. With the introduction of power lines, the floats were shortened in 1883 and again in 1910 to accommodate the electric streetcar lines. The placing of dolls of the race floats is a relatively recent practice. Following WWII, there was a shortage of materials with which to decorate the floats. Instead of dolls, a large painted piece of wood was placed on the float. Old kimono sashes made from Hakata textiles were also draped on the floats. (http://fukuoka-now.com/2013/07/hakata-gion-yamakasa-guide-2013/)

Here's a description of how the race works, also courtesy of Fukuoka Now:

At any one time, only about 30 runners carry the float, while other run in front, back, or along the sides.... Those in back also play an important role, acting as ato-oshi or “pushers” pushing the float from behind.

The four people riding on the float, called dai-agari, have the responsibility of directing the runners to change positions. Using a red baton (teppou) they point out individual runners who should make room for the fresh runners. If the runner doesn’t see the baton, he may get a rap on the head or shoulder. Carrying the float takes such an enormous effort that even the strongest runners do not last for more than three of four minutes at a time. Typically they will rotate in three or four times during the course of the race.

Colored tenugui or headbands distinguish the ranks of the runners.The following three colors are standardized throughout the seven nagare: red designates strong, young runners with responsibility for carrying the float; red and white designates elders responsible for planning and logistics; blue and white designates elders responsible for health and safety.
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In addition, each nagare also has other colors to distinguish the ranks of other runners.
There are also four other types of runners who wear woven colored cloth ropes around their chests to indicate their special roles: red designates the right to ride on the float; blue designates hanadori (steerers), who control the float using ropes tied to each of the four corners; green designates runners who direct traffic; yellow designates runners who clear a path for their float. They also watch out for the children, some of whom carry itamanekibata, banners with the nagare‘s name. (http://fukuoka-now.com/2013/07/hakata-gion-yamakasa-guide-2013/)


One thing that I love about this race is the fact that, apparently, they don't publish any of the results of who are the winners each year! It's all just about teamwork and community, and fun of course. I will post links to videos later, as blogger can't hold a lot of video and the videos are long. A few of them worked, though.

July 15th, 3 a.m.

I didn't sleep at all, broke down and bought some coffee, and was still wide awake at 3 a.m. when I left for the festival. The small streets were really empty, so I headed for the big shrine. It was so packed, though, that I just stood at the edge of the crowd and snapped some photos of the men waiting for the race to begin:

Dunno how they could not be embarrassed walking around like that . . .

Here's one of the giant things they have to carry around. These things literally weigh a ton so you can understand why so many people are required to help carry them. You'll see it in the light later on.

After viewing this area, I went back and found me a spot to stand. I would have sat on the curb but I stupidly wore a skirt. My feet were killing me after hours of standing, but it was so worth it!


Finally, it became 4:59 and we could barely hear the song the men were singing as they were beginning the race. We were a ways off from Kushida shrine, where it all began. At about 5:30, the roar of cheers and sight of giant buckets of water flailing in the air arose in the distance. Everyone around me stood up and we edged forward until we were warned by part of the Yamakasa crew to step out of the street. I would find out later why that was.







Go, go, go!

Ouch! That's gotta hurt your pride. They dropped the float! They were definitely beat, I felt so bad for them. I think that guy that was going crazy with the water hose might have disconcerted them, because that's exactly where they stopped!

Can you see the lady? She's got a cat on her shoulder and a dog that's dressed up!











These guys were so quick, it was amazing.















These guys were really fast, too! 



After the last float had passed, we all marched towards the shrine where they prayed and I took pictures.

A body was being carried out of the shrine on a stretcher. I have no idea what happened, but the person was completely covered up, and it looked small, like a child.











These are one of the floats used only for decoration, but that used to be carried around.


The men celebrating with bottles of sake. I think these were the guys who dropped the float.

Throngs headed for home.


Let's eat! I think these were the winners.



These are the ropes they use to carry the float.


There are 2 bridges, the furthest one shows throngs of people. Maybe you can see them.

I passed another shrine and thought this tree was really beautiful.


Even dogs were dressed up for the even! 

 


I hope you guys enjoyed this, of course it's so much more exciting actually being there and being pushed aside as to not get trampled by the men.